Toyota Sequoia Latch Fix

Last year, the handle on the rear hatch of my Sequoia broke, and I replaced it with an all metal mechanism. This is a common problem on Sequoia's, and a well documented fix on YouTube, etc.

Just recently the latch became progressively more difficult to open, and then finally, the door wouldn't open at all. The cable that activates the latch had stretched too much and wasn't moving the mechanism enough to un-latch it. With the door stuck closed, I had no other option than to remove the molding around the rear window, and then carefully pry off the inside door cover to gain access to the latch mechanism. I cut a small notch in a piece of 1/2" square aluminum rod (wood would work as well), and used that as a hook to grab the cable and pull up on it, therefore opening the door. Once the door was open I was able to further remove the inside covers. I needed a quick fix and didn't want to replace the entire cable system. I had a small 0.25" motor collar sitting around, and it was almost the right size to slip over the ball on the end of the cable. I drilled out the hole so that it would slide over the ball, and then I replaced the set screw with a regular screw so that it would grab on to the thin cable. This would act as a spacer to take up the slack in the cable. With the collar in place it was easy to reassemble everything, and now the latch handle works more effectively than it ever has! I realize not everyone has the supplies laying around to do this, but it might spark the idea for a similar fix.

FT-817ND LiPo Setup

Here's the components I use to power my FT-817ND in the field:

Zippy 3S 5000mah 20C Hardcase battery. I went with the hardcase as a little extra insurance against knocks and drops. If I did it over again, I'd skip the hardcase and just go with a standard shrink wrapped battery so I can visually inspect for faulty/puffed cells. Something like this. I cut off the bullet connectors and installed Anderson Power Poles.

Turnigy E3 Compact 2S/3S AC Charger. Small and simple charger. Charges slowly, which is good for extending the useful life of your batteries, but bad if you're in a hurry.

HobbyKing Cell Checker w/ Low Voltage Alarm. This is essential to help prevent over discharging your battery. The piezo alarm is incredibly loud, so I popped open the case and ripped out most of the sound diaphragm. It's still audible, but not so annoying now.

Automotive Inline Fuse. Just a simple fuse holder from the local auto store. Wired inline on the positive battery lead as another insurance measure against short circuit/fire.

Just a heads up if you've never ordered from HobbyKing before - make sure you select the warehouse nearest to you before adding items to your cart. HobbyKing doesn't let you make one order that ships from multiple warehouses. There is also a 3200mah capacity limit for international shipments, so that's another reason to choose a nearby warehouse.

Lithium Polymer Batteries for Amateur Radio

The topic of batteries for portable radio operations and SOTA (Summits On The Air) often comes up on the various forums and email reflectors. When I first began operating portable with my FT-817ND in 2009, I used SLA (Sealed Lead Acid) batteries to power the radio. These batteries are often found in emergency exit lighting systems, uninterrupted power supplies, motorcycles, kids scooters, etc. They have their place, but they are large, very heavy, and voltage output drops considerably under load. The advantages are they are relatively easy to come by, don't require any special safety concerns, and require a very simple trickle charger to charge them. In the end, I just couldn't get past their size and weight. If I was taking my radio on any sort of long hike, I didn't want an extra 3 pound chunk of lead in my backpack.

I decided to take the time and educate myself on other batteries available, and ultimately decided to use a Lithium Polymer (LiPo) battery made for remote control hobby applications. These batteries pack a lot of capacity and voltage into a small, light package. They work well in cold weather, and have a relatively flat voltage discharge curve. They do come with their own set of rules, however, and it's wise to do your research lest you unwittingly burn your house down. With care though, they are an excellent tool for portable electronic applications. 

For a much more detailed look at LiPo batteries follow this link: A Guide to Understanding LiPo Batteries

I'll give you a quick overview here:

The nominal voltage of a single cell LiPo battery is 3.7 volts, and they are usually put into multi cell packs to achieve the desired voltage. When you shop for these batteries they are labeled by cell number with an "S". 1S = 1 cell (3.7v), 2S = 2 cells (7.4v), 3S = 3 cells (11.1v), and so on. The next number is usually their capacity (750mah, 2200mah, etc.) The third number to pay attention to is the "C" number. This number is the maximum amount of current you can draw from the battery in relation to the capacity (C*Capacity = Max current draw).Common "C" values are 25C, 35C, etc. Suppose you have a 3S 2200mah 25C battery - this means the battery will provide 11.1 volts @ 55 amps. That is a lot of power! Usually the higher the C value, the more expensive the battery. Even using a 100 watt radio you're not even going to come close to the common 25C rating, so go ahead and get a battery with a lower C rating and save yourself some money. 

Now lets compare the specs:

5ah SLA battery: $15 from Amazon. 39 cubic inches. 56 ounces.

5ah LiPo battery: $23 from HobbyKing. 28 cubic inches. 14 ounces.

Anyone looking to reduce the size and weight of their system should appreciate those numbers!

"Well, I can buy 3 SLA batteries for the price of 2 LiPo batteries" you contend. True, but let's take a look at the usable life of each battery. SLA batteries are usually only rated for 200-300 discharge cycles. A properly cared for LiPo can theoretically be discharged anywhere from 500-1000 times. That's a lot! Depending on how you use the LiPo during that time can lead to much shorter or longer lifespans, but the point is they typically last much longer than SLA's.  

If LiPo's are so great why isn't everyone using them? Because if they are mistreated they can easily catch on fire! If you accidentally puncture a cell, it usually leads to a fire. If you short circuit the battery it dumps a lot of current very quickly, creating a lot of heat, which melts the cells, and usually leads to a fire. If you charge the battery too quickly or discharge the battery too much, it creates heat, and can cause the battery to catch on fire. With a little care though fire can be avoided! Store them in a fireproof container, use a LiPo Safe bag when charging, don't throw them/excessively drop them, don't leave them charging unattended, etc. as long as you follow these rules, you should never run into any problems.

Many people prefer LiFePo4 batteries because they exhibit a lot of similar qualities as a LiPo, but are typically much safer. While they don't like being discharged too much or being punctured, just like the LiPo, the odds of them catching on fire are very slim. They have a nominal voltage of 3.2 volts, which makes for a convenient 12.8v 4S pack. The reason I did not go this route is these batteries are a lot more expensive, and are a tad bit larger and heavier than LiPo's given the same capacity. For example a 4S 4200mah 30C LiFePo4 will run you $41 from HobbyKing, 44 cubic inches, 19 ounces.

Whatever battery you decide on, make sure that your radio will handle the voltage. While a 4S LiPo has a nominal voltage of 14.8 volts, when fully charged they can sit around 16.8 volts, which is typically too high for your average radio. For the FT-817 a 3S LiPo @ 12.6v charged, 9.9v discharged is just about perfect. Other radios aren't happy under 11 volts, so a 4S LiPo with a voltage regulator might be an option. 

LiPo batteries come with a variety of connectors, but I always cut them off and install Anderson Power Poles so all my electronics gear is interchangeable. Just be careful not to short the wires if you do decide to cut off the connector and install something different, because short circuiting these batteries can cause fires!  Most sources agree that LiPo's should not be discharged below 3.3v per cell, so I use a small voltage alarm plugged into the balance leads of the battery to ensure I don't accidentally over discharge my battery. For $3 they are cheap insurance!

Baofeng UV-5R Review

Baofeng UV-5R

I once again found myself strapped for cash for a new radio project and sold my Wouxun KG-UV3D to help fund it. This left me without a VHF/UHF rig for a few months until I stumbled upon the Baofeng UV-5R. These little handheld VHF/UHF radio can currently (as of 12SEP13) be had from Amazon.com for a mere $32 USD. As the saying goes - "You get what you pay for", but in this case I feel like you actually get a little more than what you pay for. It's a very compact handheld radio that will easily fit in a pants pocket, or the nook or cranny of you rucksack. It comes standard with a respectable 1800mah Lithium rechargeable battery, that, from a full charge will power the radio on squelched standby for 2-3 days. It's fully capable of wideband TX & RX (be careful where you transmit!), 4 watts output, CTSS, DCS, standard repeater offsets, split frequency offsets, and dual channel receive. Needless to say it will functionally do 90% of what other fancy handheld radios will do, for a fraction of the cost. Now, keep in mind it is NOT waterproof, or dust proof, like the Wouxun, Yaesu's etc. but the thrifty know that a heavy duty Ziploc bag can solve that problem! I wouldn't expect this radio to survive a tumble off any mountain cliffs, etc. but if your life doesn't depend on it, no worries! Just go order another one! You could easily buy four of these radios before you're up to the initial cost of a Wouxun KG-UV3D. The UV-5R has a full coverage FM receiver which is a nice feature. It also has a bright LED flashlight on the top of the radio, that can be turned to strobe mode with a second push of the button.

 So what are the negatives of the UV-5R? The stock antenna is inadequate, and you'd be wise to purchase a better antenna for ~$5 from Amazon. After a short QSO on 2m, the 2m loading coil on my stock antenna was nearly too hot to touch! That's not good at all...However, on 70cm's the stock antenna works pretty decently - granted, I have not done any SWR analysis or the like, but it works well enough for general use. Like the Wouxun, the UV-5R has an annoying TX/RX light on the front panel that you can not turn off. Some paint or tape might be a quick fix. The menu system is not intuitive at all, so I highly recommend you also spend the extra $6 or $7 and get the USB programming cable. The software included with the programming cable did not even install correctly for me, but the CHIRP software is available for download at no cost, and quite simple to use.

Annoying RX/TX LED

In summary, the Baofeng UV-5R is a great buy at only $32 USD. It would make a great second radio to keep in your car, take on hikes, or anywhere where you don't want to risk abusing your shiny shack queen handheld radio. It would also be an excellent radio for new amateur radio operators wanting to get their feet wet, and try out VHF/UHF repeaters. I even expect young kids just getting involved in amateur radio could figure out how to get their hands on $32

Baofeng UV-5R size comparison to a normal sized mug.

Par End Fedz 10/20/40 Review

My first HF antenna was a ladder-line fed 40m dipole. My QTH had didn't have many trees to hold up an antenna and it was quite a chore to get it up in the air. Once I did get it up, the weight of the ladder line made it look more like a sloppy "V" than a neat "T"...and everyone knows an antenna that looks good can give you 3db gain under the right conditions :) It was also hard to string the antenna so the feedline came down in a convenient location over the house so I didn't have to run excessive lengths of coax or ladder-line to it. So I started to look for alternatives. I needed an antenna that was shorter than a full size dipole, required minimal supports, was easy to set up when portable, was well built to stand up to the elements, and performed as well (or nearly as well ) as full size dipole.

I looked into the Buddipole & Buddistick (too expensive), folded dipoles (short, but still need well placed supports),  the Miracle MMD (expensive and too long), and others, but none struck my fancy.

Par End Fedz 10/20/40 on 4ft pole.

I came across the Par Electronics End Fedz 10/20/40 and I knew that it was the antenna for me. It's nice and short at a mere 33ft., resonant on 3 bands without the use of a tuner, has a replaceable wire element that can be swapped for any band from 40m-10m, it's end fed so no need for long feedlines, coils up neatly into a Ziploc bag, it's strong and durable, and it only costs $75.

I had my Yaesu FT-817 with me while I was visiting my parents in Lakewood, CO when I received the antenna. I was excited to get it on the air and rather haphazardly strung the antenna about 6ft off the ground between two trees in the backyard. I started to trim the wire element for a minimum SWR as indicated by the meter on the FT-817. The FT-817 doesn't have a very precise internal SWR meter, but it worked well enough in the absence of a quality external meter. It took about 2 minutes to trim the wire before the SWR meter dropped down, and then I was in business! It was still early in the morning, but I spun the dial around the 20m band and stopped at 14.300 during the Maritime Mobile Net. They were taking check-in's so I called with 2.5w from the internal batteries on the FT-817 and the net controller in Washington State immediately came back to me! Needless to say I was very please with initial results from the antenna!

Back at my home I mounted the antenna to a strong hook on the eave of my house, about 8ft high, directly outside the window where I had my radio located. I only needed a short 6-8ft. length of RG-8/U coax to feed the antenna, which helped keep the cost, and feedline losses to a minimum. I then stretched the 33ft wire element into the yard and found that a random 4ft. post that the previous owners had installed was about 35ft away, and was perfect for keeping the wire element tightly stretched. Ah, isn't it good when things work out just so? In this low sloping configuration the antenna continued to amaze me and I was able to work many stations in the U.S. and DX (Aruba, Hawaii, etc.) on SSB w/ 5w or less. It didn't work very well for nearby contacts (0-200 miles) but it when I pushed it up a little higher to around 15ft, it seemed to perform better with NVIS contacts.

Par End Fedz 10/20/40 on 15ft pole

The antenna is great for Hams who don't have a lot of space to erect antennas but still need strong performance. It's also great for stealth operations because of the black wire element and flexibility of ways you can put it up. It works equally well horizontal, vertical, or sloping. I use the antenna quite a bit while camping and it only takes a few minutes to throw the antenna over a tree limb and get on the air. There are no multiples wires to get tangled up, no baluns to mess around with, no excessively long feedlines. It's simple and works great. For the price and performance, I would strongly recommend the antenna to anyone.

The Par End Fedz 10/20/40 antenna (left) with it's matching box (center) and the RG-174 feedline (right)

MFJ 1899T Review

Yaesu FT-817 w/ MFJ 1899T antenna

 

Another old post from my wordpress site:

March 28, 2011

My wife and I conveniently had last week off of school and work for Spring Break, so we were able to do some traveling and relaxing. My wife brought her sewing machine along to work on a few projects from the hotel room, but I didn’t bring my radio gear because I knew I had limited antenna options from inside a hotel room. I have used speaker wire dipoles with great success but I try not to bother my wife with those on vacation because she is patient enough with my variously strung wires around our home. The weather wasn’t exactly balmy either so I ruled out any outdoor portable work. I decided next time we travel I would have something capable of operating indoors! I’ve looked into magnetic loops and while they’re excellent antennas considering their small size I decided to go with a more conventional and compact vertical whip antenna.

I ordered a MFJ 1899T from Gigaparts and had it here on my doorstep in less than week. There’s not much to this antenna and I’m not convinced that it’s all that sturdy but with a little care I don’t see it breaking too easily… I  hooked it up to the rear PL-259 jack on the FT-817 with a right angle and BNC adaptor. Using the supplied tuning guide I tried it on various bands and found that it doesn’t even come close to the recommended settings -  but with a little trial and error the correct jumper and whip length can be found for minimal SWR. I had my Par End Fedz hooked up to the front BNC connection so I was able to readily switch back and forth to compare signal strengths. When tuned correctly, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the little whip was very close to the Par antenna. Definitely a little quieter, but not enough to lose a station unless they were right on the noise floor to begin with. Even tuned correctly I had couple bars on the SWR meter but was easily rectified with a 3ft counterpoise attached to the ground screw on the rear of the FT-817. Now I still hadn’t transmitted with it yet so I wasn’t setting my hopes to high on this little antenna. I figured the fastest and easiest way to get some signal reports was to run it with WSPR, so I set up the software and let it whisper it’s little whistle into the ether for about 15-20 minutes. Came back to check on reports and….wow! I had hoped it could at least net a couple stateside stations but was quite happy to see the little whip chucking the little signal across the pond into Europe! Here’s the WSPR Map: 

20m WSPR w/ MFJ 1899T

I realize using WSPR is kinda “cheating” because you could probably go outside, holler your call sign, and with the capabilities of the software someone in Madagascar would see you on their waterfall… but I feel it’s a good way to really get a feel of where your signal is going. I will be doing some more extensive operating with this antenna in the future but so far so good! I will keep everyone posted on how it works out… On a side note I’ve been noticing the rear heat sink on the FT-817 gets quite hot with even minimal use, my FT-817ND barely got warm even with heavy use…curious….

29 March UPDATE:
This morning I checked into the New Mexico Breakfast Club on 3.939 mhz using the 1899T and 5 watts. It took a couple tries to get through but I was able to get in there none the less… This antenna is pretty slick. In no way will it ever perform as well as a full size antenna and I would never recommend it as a primary antenna but if your traveling or due to size constraints this is the only thing you can fit, it will get your signal out there reasonably well. Last night I did some listening on 40m and there were times when a station was 100% copy on the Par 10/20/40 and then was completely gone when I switched to the 1899T -  so in some circumstances it can be quite deaf, but if you’re just having fun and don’t mind missing a few stations here and there it won’t be a bother.

Last night I also ran some WSPR on 40m. Was happy with the results on that band as well:

40m WSPR w/ MFJ 1899T

Winter's Day WSPR

Another old post from my wordpress site:
January 31, 2011

Today the teacher is sick. Today also happens to look like this:

 Which then entails this:

 

Which means it's a perfect day for this:

 I can't complain!

First 15 minutes using WSPR on 20m with 2.5w

Countries & States Worked

Another old post from my wordpress site:

January 12, 2011

From here in Colorado, operating casually for 6 months (since August 2010), using a stock Yaesu FT-817ND, Par End Fedz 10/20/40, 5 watts or less, SSB voice, I have made contacts in:
40 states (still need: Alaska, Connecticut, Delaware, Massachusetts, New Hampshire, New Jersey, Rhode Island, Vermont, and West Virginia)
Canada
Aruba
Turks & Caicos Is.
Dominican Republic
Mexico
Slovenia
Poland
Russia
Germany
France
Hungary
Bulgaria
Czech Republic
Slovak Republic
Sweden
Portugal
Austria
Venezuela
Norway
Azore Is.
Argentina
Brazil
Costa Rica
Bogota
Kermedec Is.
St. Maarten
Japan
28 March 2011 Update:
Yesterday was the CQ WW contest and was yet another example that even  a mere 5 watts can provide reliable worldwide communications. Taking my time and cruising the bands, in 1hr and 20min I made contacts in:
Brazil, Belgium, Germany, Croatia, Netherlands, Bosnia, Slovenia, Italy, and Curacao.
The Brazilian station was noteworthy in that it was my first 10m DX contact. 10m doesn’t seem to be open very much (at least when I’m operating) so I was happy to make the contact with PR5D.

Have you SSB QRP'd lately???

Another old post from my wordpress site:
November 4th, 2010 
Conditions have been excellent for QRP SSB on 20m the past few days. My latest contact was with K2QNU in New York with a 5×6 signal report with 0.5w (500mw) on 20 meters. If you have your 817 sitting on the shelf gathering dust, get it fired up and on the air!

A note on NVIS...

This is an old post from my wordpress site:

September 21, 2010

For operating at home I strung the Par End Fedz 10/20/40 from the top of my dining room window (about 8ft high) to a fence pole (~4ft) that is randomly placed in our yard, but happened to be nearly the perfect distance away to pull the wire tight. I had good DX success with the antenna on both 20, and 40m with the low configuration and didn’t have any problem contacting stations from both coasts and even the Caribbean and Hawaii. It did however lack greatly for contacts into Colorado and surrounding states. I have 2 pieces of electrical conduit that I had bolted together to act as a mast for a 40m, ladder-line fed dipole that I had strung over the house the previous year but has been unused since I took down that antenna. I lashed this mast (about 15ft high?) to the fence post in the yard and pulled the end of the antenna to the top of it. With the new, higher configuration I tested it by checking into the High Noon Net on 7.240mhz. Previously with the low wire, I had a hard time checking into the net with many repeats of my call sign and often garnering no response at all. However, with the new high wire, I have checked into the net 2 days in a row without a problem at all. One net control station was located in southern New Mexico, quite nearly in the null of my antenna, and the other near Salt Lake City, Utah, thus indicating I am getting a good vertical signal out for NVIS work. This is encouraging as previously I couldn’t contact anyone at all if they were within a few hundred miles. I have not had much opportunity to check how the antenna work for low-angle DX stuff but have had a couple of contacts into CA and MO. The hummingbirds don’t care either way and enjoy perching on the wire in any configuration…

Par End Fedz 10/20/40 on 4ft pole

Par End Fedz 10/20/40 on ~15ft pole

Wouxun KG-UV3D Review

Wouxun KG-UV3D in dual RX mode

I've owned three different handheld radios since becoming a Ham. The first was a Yaesu VX-1, which a very compact little radio, but being only 1w output is best suited for around town where repeaters aren't too far away.
The second radio was a Yaesu VX-7R. This is a great 5w tri-band handheld radio with a plethora of features, and I would recommend it to anybody. The VX-7R is built like a tank, and I wouldn't hesitate to use one in the wilderness or a combat zone, which says a lot about it's quality. The problem was I rarely used it and had a lot of money tied up in it. I still like to have a handheld 2m/70cm radio around the house so I can jump on repeaters or listen to the local public service frequencies, so I set out to find something that was easy on the pocket book but still met my needs. A couple friends, AB5ZR and K0BV had played around with the Wouxun radios and had good things to say about them, so that's where I started to look for a replacement for the VX-7R.
What I needed was: 2m & 70cm coverage, 5w output, waterproof, inexpensive.
The Wouxun KG-UV3D can be bought new for about $120, but used ones come up for sale now and again, so I watched the For Sale forums and was able to snag one. Someday when I'm rich I'd like to own a Yaesu VX-8 with APRS and all the bells and whistles, but the KG-UV3D fills the current need of a simple, inexpensive, and quality handheld radio.

Observations of the Wouxun KG-UV3D:

• For anyone who wants a full featured handheld (i.e. repeater offsets, DCS and CTSS, dual receive etc.) without any extras to clutter up the menu and front panel this radio is ideal. It's has the essential features and nothing more. I think it would be a great radio for new Hams just starting out who want repeater & satellite access, but don't want to break the bank.
• The speaker is of good quality and is very loud. It works well for listening to FM broadcast stations, or if you like to moniter the radio while you work around the house, the speaker is plenty loud to hear it throughout the house.
• The filtering is a little less than great, and it tends to pick up a lot of stray RF hash around the house and in the car. I rarely had that problem with the VX-7R. It really only poses a problem when scanning because it tends to stop on all the strong static, and is just plain annoying. You can fix this by turning the squelch up to a higher level, but I do wish it had a little better filtering.
•  When the radio receives a signal, a bright green LED illuminates near the top of the radio. This is just plain annoying, especially when it's just picking up static and is flashing on and off. It's especially annoying at night, because the green LED is very bright. The VX-7R had the option to turn off all periphery indicator lights, and the KG-UV3D does not. I think a small piece of black tape will fix the problem.
• I like the dual receive feature. You can easily monitor two different repeaters, or listen to FM broadcast stations while monitoring a repeater at the same time.
• There is a single LED flashlight built into the top of the case which I think is a clever feature. In a power outage you can use it to find your way around the house, etc.
• The radio carries an IP55 rating which translates into: Limited dust ingress protection & protected against low pressure water jets from any direction. I wouldn't use the radio while boating or where it might get a good dunking, but it should be fine if you work with it out in the rain and elements. The case seems pretty durable as well and looks like it could take a fall without any damage. The VX-7R feels like it could probably be driven over with a truck and still function, but I think the KG-UV3D wouldn't hold up quite as well under severe abuse.
• The programming software that was included with the radio is not worth your time. It is hard to use and everything has to be entered manually. I would highly recommend the KG-UV Commander Software provided by KC8UNJ. I encourage you to drop him a donation if his software has been a benefit to you. 
• Overall, for the cost of these radios, I think it's a good value. No, it's not as good of quality or has the same features as the VX-7R, but that's why the VX-7R is a good $200 more expensive. So if you need a light to medium duty handheld, or are a newbie looking for a good starter radio, I think the KG-UV3D is worth considering.

The annoying super-bright RX light

Relative size

Yaesu FT-817 Review

I've owned a couple Yaesu FT-817's so I thought I'd do a quick write-up that might help someone else interested in buying one. First of all, for a larger variety of reviews for anything ham radio related I would strongly suggest the reviews found on www.eHam.net.

The Yaesu FT-817 is Yaesu's compact, portable, QRP (5w), all mode, all band transceiver. There are quite a few used ones on the market and can be had for ~$400-$600 USD. Now, QRP isn't for everybody. I think a lot of guys buy them, wanting a portable radio for picnic table operation, but when they get frustrated with the low power, they sell them off again. If you use this radio with an understanding of what it is, and within the realm of it's capabilities, it is a grand little piece of equipment. If you are expecting a contest grade radio, with high-end performance, and antenna melting power, you will be sadly disappointed.

I have owned 2 of these radios. One was a stock FT-817ND, and the other was a Yaesu FT-817 with the W4RT OBF (One Board Filter for CW & SSB), and the BHI DSP installed.

Some observations on the FT-817

•  Compact & simple: The size of this radio is perfect for the operator who lives in an apartment or just needs to keep a small footprint. I especially liked it because I could leave it set up on a small end table in our dining room and it was discreet enough that it didn't bother my wife :)
• Minimal power supply: You don't need a giant power supply to run the radio. I for one do not like the "old school" convention of having huge power supplies and rigs around my 'ham shack'. I like compact, simple, and practical. I often ran the radio off of a small sealed lead acid battery (SLAB) or a small "wall wart" power supply. You could even run the radio off of a small solar panel if you wanted.
• All mode/All band: With a radio the size of a small hardback book you can jump from 160m all the way up to 70cm with a push of a button. You can play around on HF or talk on repeaters and satellites. You aren't restricted to any one mode either. It will do AM/FM/SSB/CW/RTTY/Digital modes. For the digital modes you'll have to build yourself a radio-to-PC interface or purchase one like the Rigblaster Plug&Play.
• QRP is FUN!: For a wimpy 5w QRP rig you can do quite well on the HF bands. Using a mere 5w or less on SSB, with very casual operating I was able to make hundreds of contacts over the span of about 6 months from Colorado, including 40 U.S. States, and 33 DX stations (Including Italy, Russia, Hungary, Brazil, Japan, Germany, etc.). If you use the FT-817 with WSPR the entire world is within reach.
• Price point: $500-$600 is a lot of money for a radio, but when you compare it to other rigs that can easily sell for $1000+, it's pretty affordable. If you're internet savvy and bide your time I have seen FT-817's sell for as little as $350 on the different ham radio forums.
• The ability to add the W4RT filters and BHI DSP are a nice feature, but they are quite an expensive accessory. However, the BHI DSP does wonders to reduce the "white noise" on the HF bands. If my budget was tight I wouldn't mind putting up with some static noise, but if I had the extra cash laying around I would go for the DSP option. Unless you're an advanced user with a soldering iron I would leave it to W4RT to install any options for you. There are quite a few small surface mount parts and tricky bits to get the BHI DSP and OBF installed inside the case. Better to spend the extra cash to have it done right the first time around.
• Menu driven features: I like menu driven radios. It gives you a great deal of added features without cluttered dials and buttons on the faceplate of the radio. For older hams who grew up on dials and switches the menus might be a little ungainly. Growing up around computers I find the menus are second nature to me, and pretty easy to navigate.
• Internal batteries: I like the idea of using internal batteries to power the FT-817 but in reality it's not very practical. The FT-817 isn't the most power efficient and quickly burns up the eight AA batteries it holds. Even with minimal use, you'd be lucky to get 4-6 hours out of them. I wish Yaesu would either supply the FT-817 with a high capacity rechargeable battery or use the internal battery compartment to house an antenna auto-tuner.

I used my FT-817's for low profile operating at home, and for portable operation while camping and motorcycling, and it's a fantastic rig for those uses. If you have a larger budget it appears the forthcoming Elecraft KX3 will blow the FT-817 out of the water, but for the price point, and availability the FT-817 is a great buy.

Below are a few video I made when I owned the FT-817's. Excuse the poor quality video!

Operating portable near Trinidad, CO contacting the DXpedition ZL8X to Kermadec Island with 5 watts from the Yaesu FT-817ND with Par End Fedz 10/20/40 antenna with a 22ft. #26 wire element cut for 15m. 

Operating with the Yaesu FT-817ND from 11,950ft on Trinchera Peak in the Sangre De Cristo mountains in southern Colorado. Antenna is a Par End Fedz 10/20/40. Listening to a pile-up for UW5ZM in Ukraine.

Here's a short video of my Yaesu FT-817 doing a side by side antenna comparison on recieve. The rear antenna is a MFJ 1899T and the front antenna is a Par End Fedz 10/20/40 via 25' of RG-174 coax, horizontal at about 15ft. The frequency is 7.205 LSB. You can see how strong stations are very close in signal strength while weaker stations drop out quickly with the MFJ antenna. You can also see the effectiveness of the W4RT installed BHI DSP unit.

Crystal Sets To Sideband

I have recently been reading the book Crystal Sets To Sideband by Frank W. Harris K0IYE. The book is available for free in PDF format. I would HIGHLY recommend this book to any new Hams or anyone wanting to learn more about electricity and radios. Frank explains some very complex principles in easy to understand, and practical ways. Either I wasn't taught any of this stuff in school, or I wasn't paying attention, but page after page the light bulb would click on in my head "Ooooh so that's how it works...". The book goes into a lot of DIY radio projects so it's also a must read for anyone who enjoys building things from scratch. So search Google for Crystal Sets To Sideband by Frank W. Hariis K0IYE. Whether you're a newbie or an expert I'm sure you'll find it worth your time. By the way, you can upload the book PDF files to your Kindle or other e-reader and enjoy the book on that device. Many thanks to Mr. Harris for providing this great resource free of charge!

Download the book here: Crystal Sets To Sideband

Kindle 3 Review

For an early Christmas gift my wonderful wife bought me an Amazon Kindle 3 w/3g. The past few years the idea of an e-reader didn't interest me in the slightest. They were expensive, limited in what books were available, and I had boxes of books in storage that I had never read anyway. I had a few books on my short list that I wanted to buy and read, but after checking for them on Amazon.com I discovered that the majority of them were old enough that they were available for free in e-reader format. If I had bought the hardbacks, for the same price I could have the Kindle with the books loaded for free, and have access to the thousands of other free books available in e-reader and PDF format.

So who is the Kindle for? I think it's ideal for folks who are trying to simplify their life and don't want to keep a lot of books around their house, either on shelves or in storage. Will it replace all your books? I doubt it...there are many books not yet available in digital format, and there's something to be said about having a real, solid book in your hand. It's a great tool for those who read a lot while they travel, and don't want to lug multiple books around with them. If you're an avid reader with a limited budget most digital books are at least 50% less expensive than their printed counterparts, not to mention all the free content available. If you can afford to spend $100 on books, I think you should look into a Kindle.

Here's a few features that I think are worth mentioning:

• Compact and lightweight: I can easily throw it into my pants cargo pocket and go about my day. It's not going to survive a severe drop, so some caution must be used when deciding where you're going to store it. Although I wouldn't hesitate to weather-proof it with a Ziploc bag and take it camping with me.
• Easy to read screen: Like the ads say, it really does read just like a book. In fact due to the high contrast of the screen I feel quite comfortable reading it in low light where it might be a little too dark for a conventional book. New users comment that the screen flashes whenever you turn a page. After a little while you completely ignore the screen flashing, it's not an issue.
• Internet accessibility: It's actually quite fast when checking email and forums. Mobile web site are advised when possible since media intensive web sites tend to slow down the browser quite a bit. I wouldn't hesitate to use it to check email or do some light internet browsing from a coffee shop etc. I have had the browser freeze when trying to access Facebook, so it's not the most stable or inclusive feature, but it will do light duty stuff without too much trouble.
• Battery life: The battery last a long time in comparison to all the other mobile electronics we use these days. I usually plug the Kindle in to charge overnight every few days and have never had the battery less then 3/4 full. You can read all you want and not have to keep your eye on the battery level. Having wireless on tends to drain the battery much more quickly so if you're just reading books or expect to be away from a power source for awhile, go ahead and keep the wireless switched off.
• Availability of content: I can find 99% of all the book I want in Kindle (or PDF) format. I tend to like old books, and fortunately most of them end up being free due to their age. The availability of old, free books has expanded my library considerably and I've been enjoying a great number of books I never would have even heard of hadn't it been for the Kindle.
• 3G access: I can access Amazon and Wikipedia anywhere there is a cell phone signal, and not have to worry about finding a WiFi hotspot. If you plan on using the Kindle exclusively from home, the extra cost of the 3G may not be worthwhile to you, but if you're like me and are out and about quite often, I think it's worth it. I have even been able to access the internet via 3G to check email etc. but I wouldn't be surprised if Amazon negates that feature with future software updates.
• Speaker quality: There are two small speakers imbedded in the back of the Kindle case. For their size I was expecting low quality, tinny, or flat sound, but I was happy to find they are actually quite good speakers. I downloaded a free classical album from Amazon and the sound is very deep and full. No complaints there. You can also use the Text to Speech option to turn nearly any book into an audiobook. This works okay, but the computerized speech lacks the inflection a human reader would have and can quickly become boring. Granted, it's a great feature none the less.

 Overall I would highly recommend the Kindle to anyone considering one. If you plan on doing a fair amount of internet browsing with it, definitely jump for the Kindle 3 (with keyboard), or the Kindle Touch. The lowest cost Kindle (currently $79) requires you to navigate the on-screen keyboard with the 5-way controller button, which can make entering text quite a chore. I opted for the physical keyboard because I have large fumbly fingers and always seem to press the wrong keys on touch screens.

UPDATE: After using the Kindle for a couple weeks I have a couple more observations:

• There isn't any way to edit website bookmark titles. Try to Bookmark Google Maps and it wants to overwrite the default Google bookmark because they have the same title.
• No way to view and select MP3 files. You have no way to select which files you want to listen to other than by manually skipping with the Alt-F shortcut.
• I personally wouldn't mind giving up a little on size to have a larger capacity battery and memory. Even though the battery life and 3500 book capacity is great, it wouldn't hurt for it to be better.
• I have big hands and the case is pretty thin and dainty. I need a case/cover to give me something thicker to hold onto. 
• The downside to having access to thousands of free books is you want to read them all at the same time! I need to prioritize my reading list :)

CD Case Stand for the FT-817

Here's a clever little idea that works like a charm. Folds flat and doesn't weigh much - perfect for the picnic table operator. I made one for myself in about 2 minutes... http://www.kr1st.com/ft817stand.htm

L-Com RG-174 Coax

I needed a short run of coaxial cable to run from my Yaesu FT-817ND to the Par End Fedz 10/20/40 antenna and was pointed to L-com as a good source for coax and accessories. I decided on RG-174/U coax for it's small size, light weight, and flexibility that I needed when operating portable from campsites or out in the woods somewhere. The losses on RG-174 are definitely higher than say RG-8 or other coax cable, at 5.8db @ 100ft, but since I was only using 25ft I accepted the losses (1.45db) in lieu of the greater portability this coax offered. When rolled up the coax fits quite nicely in a quart size Ziploc bag. The cable from L-com is well made with nice stress-protectors where the cable meets the BNC plug and has worked very well to date. For 25 feet with BNC connectors the coax runs about $14 and is well worth it in my mind for portable/backpacking radio work. The thin coax also works very well to run through my dining room window when I have the antenna mounted at home, and is slim enough that I can close the window without crushing the coax. This attribute makes it convenient for those who need a low profile/non-permanent solution to mounting antenna from their home.

25 feet of L-Com RG-174 Coax in a 1qt Ziploc bag.

ICQ Podcasts

I recently came across the ICQ Podcasts by M6BOY and M1MRB while I was looking for something to help pass the time while working. It's a good quality podcast with a great deal of relevant and interesting information concerning Ham radio. My hats off to these fellows who put a significant amount of time and effort into these podcasts for our listening pleasure. You can find more information at: http://www.icqpodcast.com/

Condense The Nonsense

less is more

Let’s face it. The vast majority of us have too much stuff. Whether it’s household possessions, equipment in the garage, or the gear in our pack, we probably have too much of it. I often find myself opening a closet or box and find I haven’t used half the items that it contains in over a year. Why do we keep the stuff around? Are we hoarders that acquire items simply for the sake of ‘having’ them? possible, but unlikely. More probable is that we see a use for the item down the road – “Well, I don’t need it now, but if ___ happens, I’ll have the right tool for it”. I love being prepared for any situation, but where do we draw the line? 

This past year my wife and I have moved twice, and the reality that I have too much stuff has become very apparent. At the start, I prided myself on how little I did have, and that we fit our entire house into a 17ft moving van, but you really begin to question the actual value of your belonging as you pack it into a box for the second time in 2 months and carry it up and down a flight of stairs. Dreading to move all those boxes again, I began to go through my things and see if I could thin anything out. I was soon faced with another reality – I am far from proficient with all the tools and equipment I own, and I can never hope to maintain all the stuff I have. I was reminded of the verse in the Bible (I had to look it up) Luke 16:10 NLT "If you are faithful in little things, you will be faithful in large ones. But if you are dishonest in little things, you won't be honest with greater responsibilities.” I didn’t consider myself to own a lot of stuff, but I realized what little I did have, I couldn’t even properly care for it all. Rifles to be cleaned and oiled, optics to be cared for, delicate equipment to be properly stored, vehicles to maintain…the list went on and on. How could I ever take care of all this ‘stuff’, have a job, spend time with my wife and family, and pursue my interests at the same time? I had all this nice ‘stuff’ but either for lack of time or interest it had collected in boxes and was going to waste. Not to mention all the money I had wrapped up in ‘stuff’ I rarely even used. 

What had happened was I fell into a trap many, many people are caught in today. We acquire items with an idea in mind of how it will improve an experience and in the end we are swamped with so many items we lose sight of the original goal. We need to wake up and see that a new truck, rifle, 4-wheeler, house, etc. will not bring you any joy when you have to work overtime every day to afford it, you’re exhausted by weeks end to even use it, you don’t even have the time to maintain it, or the space to store it. Why do you see so many RV’s and boats sitting in backyards? Because the owners had lofty visions of how they’d use it, but didn’t take into account the financial and time costs of owning it.

So what are we to do in light of all this? We need to consolidate. Easier said than done, but here are some ideas to get started.

•  Get rid of your stuff: If you haven’t used it in a year, sell it, donate it, or throw it out. If you’re feeling hardcore see if you can live on 100 items or less. I’m sure a lot of us could benefit if we just reduced our ‘hobby’ equipment to 100 items or less...
• Become proficient with what you already have: If you’re a poor shot with your .22 rifle, a .338LM is not going to make you a better marksman…use what you have, become an expert with it, and then you can start to think about the next big thing.
• Do more with less: That new .22-250 is looking at you seductively from the other side of the gun counter and you can envision all the varmints you could dispatch with it. Snap out of it…your .308 that you already own can do the exact same job. Owning less and doing more with what you already have can be very freeing and enjoyable. 
• Get rid of the junk: You know all those $5 pocketknives you have scattered about your house and car? Get rid of them and buy yourself one quality knife. When you buy quality, you only cry once.
• Change your thinking: Continually remind yourself that you don’t need ‘new’ stuff. Today’s society is full of consumers and our economy and pocketbooks show the grim tale of it. Use your money wisely and don’t lose it all trying to keep up with newest trends in gear and equipment.

Not only does thinning out our possession reduce the physical space in our lives, but it also clears out mental baggage and instills peace in our lives. I for one cannot focus very well on a task at hand if I’m surrounded by a mess. Even though all our ‘stuff’ may be out of sight, it can still create an attitude in us that breaks our mental focus and attitude. 

Now I’m not encouraging anyone to get rid of everything  they own and live like a hermit. Each person will have to find and set their limits and goals as to how much ‘stuff’ they can afford to live with. If that’s 50 items, or 50 boxes, that alright, just do your best to live with less and see how your life can benefit from it. Give the minimalist lifestyle a try…you have nothing to lose.